I got the last two windows back in, just in with no operators, but in. Got to keep the wet stuff out if the subfloor is going back in. Short of time today and I really wanted to put that aft piece of subfloor in. I wanted to see how hard it would be to get in there. I knew I'd regret it if I tried today--just knew I'd have troubles and be sorry I tried. Couldn't wait, though.
Used the same technique that I used to support the shell while painting the frame with POR-15. Got out a 2x4 with a radiused "T" on top, jacked it up vertically with a floor jack with the "T" on a rib line, and raised the rear part of the shell up. Lifted it enough to have about 1 1/2" of clearance between the C channel and the outriggers. Slid the new plywood in one side, spread the shell at the bottom a bit, and that rear section popped right in. Fit is really good.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the doubler made from plywood for this first seam. I'm having to fit a little to get clear spans of subfloor over my tanks as there's no room for doublers on top of them and most of the crossmembers have moved in those areas, so they don't line up at the seams. I'm planning to install a couple of rear sheets and a couple in front and finish the subfloor install around my axle.
My goal since I started Island Girl's renovation in February has been to get the subfloor back in before our Pacific Northwest weather changes back into rain. I know I'll make that goal now and that's a really good thing for me. With a floor in, I can get heat in the trailer and keep working through the cold months ahead.
New goal for the fall and winter is new insulation, new wiring, and getting the upper interior skins installed.